You should be able to ascend 3,000 feet per day while carrying 20-25 pounds on your back, and 4,000 feet per day while carrying 45 pounds or more on your back. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. Location: South side of Mount Hood. We got to the Lake Ann trailhead a bit after sunset, welcomed by swarms of biting flies. If you are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a shallow hole. Mt. This is an advanced level climb suitable for climbers in excellent physical condition with solid backpacking skills and prior glacier and rock climbing experience. After I tied back in for glacier travel, we made the very hot slog across the Upper Curtis back to high camp. This snowy peak towers above Oregon, inspiring climbers and non-climbers alike. This route delivers engaging movement and incredible scenery from start to finish. HMG Prism was just about perfect for this trip - gypsy camp with everything packed but perfect slimmed down on summit day. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. We set up our tents near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6,700 feet. If I would have known, I would have brough a new one. We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. Read the leader's notes and understand the trip, Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required, Mentored lead for Frank Chai. Area Status: Open. Trailhead: Shannon Ridge, 2500 ft. High Camp: 6500 ft. Camp to Summit: 4-5 hours, 2700 ft. gain. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Here, Rob is at the last good stance to unrope at the end of the rap. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Please read our Online Reservation for Terms and Conditions. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! We all woke up to a hefty layer of internal condensation in the tents, as Lake Ann was practically in a cloud of fog all night and into the morning. Shuksan. Heading North to Mount Shuksan. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. Everyone confronts this same issue in the backcountry. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Bring layers of fleece or wool clothing and a good sleeping bag to keep warm. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington The highest point on the mountain is a three-sided peak . Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Not only did I climb my two hardest alpine routes to-date over these back to back weekends but led them, and led them while teaching two brand new climbers overcoming a variety of alpine climbing challenges. Here are some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. After getting both of them set up with extended rappels, I would rap with coils to get the ropes down to the next station and set up. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. Permits also allow for a variable level of solitude and a high quality climbing experience, with less crowding on routes, and less impacts such as human waste, trampling, or garbage at camping locations. We take privacy seriously. Chimneys scramble was easier than I expected, I brought some rock pro but didn't use it at all. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) For more information on food storage requirements see. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. Passing the time with a lunch below Winnie's Slide to let descending parties clear out of the Bivy site. Mount Shuksan : Fischer Chimneys 7/18/2016 . Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. This route climbs one of the steeper aspects of the peak and has an on-route bivouac. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. Blackbird teams reached the summit of Mt Shuksan on Monday after climbing the Fisher Chimneys and Southeast Ridge. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. Climbers should monitor the forecast diligently before beginning a trip and turn around if conditions deteriorate. Photo from summit of Baker. As we neared what I thought was the beginning of the ridge, another party arrived, and we let them pass us given my expectation to be pitching everything out. This is a strenuous route that requires climbing technical terrain carrying an overnight pack. Failure to reach the summit due to a team members own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. Dates & Prices. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. Me, crampons on getting ready to go check out the snow conditions on Hell's Highway. Shuksan rises in Whatcom County, Washington immediately to the east of Mount Baker, and 11.6 miles south of the Canada-US border. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. Descend along the northwest edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier until you can cross to the White Salmon at about 7050 ft. Descend a short steep slope at the top of the White Salmon then keep left, following below the crest of Shuksan Arm on easy rock and snow for a short distance until you come to place where you can cross to the south side of the ridge. This offers an attractive climbing venue with significant relief and majestic views. In any case, we made the most of it, headed up to Klipchuck campground after work on Friday Aug 12th and had a great weekend, doing some cragging on Saturday and sent Spontaneity Arete on Sunday. Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascadesin Washington State. Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. Spontaneity Arete from the previous weekend. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. We climbed Mount shuksan via fisher chimneys route this weekend. Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. With over 40 years of history on the mountain RMI is . Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. Distance: 13.7 mi. Cost- $1395 (1:1), $1950 (2:1) The North Cascades are a climber's playground. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service withinNorth Cascades National Park. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. It was a good spot for it, and I figured this might be a useful skill later in the trip; plus, it gave me an excuse to have everyone practice roping up, coiling the rope, using their ice axes etc. Drive I-5 to Bellingham. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Take exit 232 from I-5 S, Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) . 22. One day push in about 13 hours.Check http://www.mountainrefugees.com for . The cloud layer pushing up against the mountain made for a dramatic sunset. I made the call to head up to the higher bivy. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. At the top, we ran into a guided group being short roped up the chimneys. Joe and Rob rapped down the steep section. The traditional name of Mount Shuksan in the Nooksack language is Shqsan ("high foot") or Ch'sqen ("golden eagle") Climbing this mountain can be a significant challenge, especially taking the route that we did. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. Photo courtesy of Joe. To make a climbing report, please e-mail the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. The boot pack was obvious once it joined with the more popular Sulphide glacier route. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. The tent you save from being gnawed by a rodent might be your own. MT. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Overview. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. Please see our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a custom program. Mt. Vertical Gain Climbing: 2,500 feet This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. and then we had to drive way off route into Marblemount to pick up a Park Service backcountry permitthe Park Service offices in Sedro Wooley and Glacier both closed at 4:30 pm that day and didn't open until 7:45 am on . At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Log in and send us Bivy sites just below the Chimneys proper are snow free. I don't think many people did Fisher Chimneys and SE Ridge as their first ever alpine climb, let alone first time literally climbing anything at all in Rob's case. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . A mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route, and joining the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Log in and send us It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. Do ask rangers about your bathroom options in various climbing areasrangers are happy to answer questions. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. A National Parks pass may suffice. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . . These are wild places of true exploration, adventure, and often epic stories of physical challenge. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. It is probably the most well-known of the non-volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range, a vivid reminder that the northern reaches of the range harbor more than giant snowy domes like . 9384 Old Hwy 99 North After that, climbing permits are obtained on a first-come, first-serve basis and subject to limited availability. Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack WeightDay 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. We rappel our route and descend to high camp. The Guide Hut serves as a meeting location, rental shop and retail store for guests of Northwest Alpine Guides. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. Click to read general Frequently Asked Questions, 425.749.7421 Mount Shuksan has become the iconic face of the rugged North Cascades of Washingon, with its picturesque north face a ubiquitous presence on calendars and souveniers. Instant noodle soups and rice are also popular. Top of the dihedral that everyone likes to take pics of. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online at, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance, For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must, be able to maintain the pace set by our guides, e lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting, VISIT OUR ONLINE GEAR SHOP > THE GUIDE HUT, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington. The last pitch was long, and I hit the end of the 50m rope I was on; however by the time I got to the end it was just class 3 so I put a micro-traxion on a piece near the top and had Rob, who was belaying me, just start climbing to make it the last 15-20 feet to the top anchor. Baker was the consolation prize for having to be awake far too early in the morning. Winnies is steep but also had a great boot pack, so I used it as a good teaching moment to let Joe take lead and put in a running belay with pickets. This is our happy place. June 28-29. Once the shop opens there is adequate time to pick-up items during the gear check the morning of the climb. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. Note:Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Day by Day Day 1. We all downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we reach the top of the chimney. Dont bury your waste in snowit melts out in a few days, looking just the same. However, Spontaneity Arete was also not normally a persons first ever alpine rock climb and Joe had kept it together and followed me up that without issue. Engineering. Shuksan, 9,127', via the Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge combines moderate rock climbing (up to 5.2), short steep snow and ice sections and spectacular glaciers on one of the most picturesque mountains in the world. Camped at Ann lake. What a beautiful place! Kyle and I climbed Shuksan via the classic Fisher Chimneys route + SE rib on Sunday. This is a difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. LINKSContact UsThe Bureau BlogPrivate Guiding RatesTerms and ConditionsFair-Trade-Living-WageOur GuidesPartnersAdvocacyOur PilotsTrip InsuranceFitness TrainingCOVID-19 InformationFor Guides, Festivals & Special EventsMazama Rock FestIndex Climbers FestivalCascadia SplitfestRockToberOutdoors@. Give us a call to check on current availability (541)312-9242. If there is no trail or designated camp, always look for rock, snow, or bare ground to travel or pitch camp. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet The drive to Lake Ann Trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours. Baker comes into view on the mid-chimney traverse. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. ), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. Baker and Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Schedule: Day 1: Approach, climb the Fisher Chimneys, circumnavigate to the base of the North Face. A difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan ( 9,131 & # x27 ; ) via the classic Chimneys! Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact us for a Custom program and! Their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the mountain made for a given.! To go check out the snow conditions on Hell 's Highway the group hot... Must be accompanied by a rodent might be your own abilities, or the abilities other. Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner this area is incredibly and... 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